21 July 2021

Cosmetics China: New Ingredients - how to protect the innovator

How can the brand centric beauty industry which traces its origins to ancient Egypt remain fresh to modern day consumers?

By updating claims and science. Advances in science filter through to greater claims or at least provide consumers with hope that claims can be met. In Europe alone there are 77 scientific innovation facilities that conduct cosmetics research. Nanotechnology is not just for space travel, advanced manufacturing, surgery but also for … skin care. L’Oreal has trademarked “NanoParticles” and has dozens of nanotech patents.
 
New ingredients which are the basis for making new claims are based in science – either as a pure innovation or a new way of dealing with a naturally occurring ingredient. There are new ingredients such as PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) which exfoliate skin; Cica which calms skin irritations; probiotics balance that balance skin conditions; squalane which keeps skin hydrated; tranexamic acid which improve pigmentation … the list goes on. 

Cosmetics have thousands of different ingredients. China’s NMPA has approximately 9,000 chemical ingredients that are approved for use in the manufacture of cosmetics for sale in China. If an ingredient is not included in this Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (“IECIC”) then it is considered a “new ingredient” and subject to a registration process. 

This brief will outline ways to protect new ingredient innovations and outline the procedures behind the registration process.



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